Medway Exiles Club

I know, I know. You wait all year for a few lousy posts from this so-called Exile, who does he think he is anyway, blogging when he feels like it, and then two come along at once. Well that's life mon pilgrim, as Jean Ouane would have said.

Wine.

I drink a fair amount of wine. Most of it is unexceptional and I confess myself untroubled by this. The supermarket glugger is good weekday fodder and in 2010 there's no need to apologise for drinking it. All the same occasionally one finds oneself in need of something more... inspiring.

Over Christmas I was fortunate enough to drink two very inspiring wines. You won't find these in any supermarket, although they shouldn't be more than a phone call away should you wish to purchase. Forgive me if I'm a little short on details. My wine-reviewing days are long behind me, I'm afraid: these aren't tasting notes, and I never enjoyed the analytical approach anyway. I always preferred the poetry of enjoying the wine in the moment - that surely is why we buy it, and drink it.

Chateau Sociando-Mallet 2003 Jean Gautreau
£40, Uncorked (www.uncorked.co.uk) 

A big belter of a Bordeaux this. Full-bodied and massive, fruity, mouth-filling flavour. Rich and powerful and refined but with plenty of fight left in it; you could happily drink this for another ten to twelve years, I reckon. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, for those who are interested in these things. So deep and intense in texture and yet elegant in structure; it's unmistakably French and a fine riposte to could-be-from-anywhere varietal winemaking. I know forty quid is a lot to spend on a bottle of wine but there is a certain level of quality that you just don't get lower down the scale. It's not an everyday wine, it's not even a weekend wine. But I guarantee that wines like this, drunk with a couple of good friends, on special occasions, transform a meal into something quite magical. Something memorable, to be savoured.

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire 2005 Barossa Quartage
£11.50, Experience Wines (www.experiencewine.co.uk) 

A quick disclaimer: my friend Nigel runs Experience Wines. I buy a case of various interesting wines that he puts together when I go down to visit him once or twice a year.

This is certainly the highlight - so far - of the last case I bought. At 14.5% alcohol it follows the modern trend of balancing ripe fruit flavours with alcoholic strength. Personally I prefer my wine less strong; but there's only so much you can fight against a trend, and besides: this wine is balanced. It has none of the smack-you-over-the-head fruit and steal-your-wallet alcohol after-effect that you get with lesser wines. It's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec , Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot; a classic Bordeaux blend, like the Sociando-Mallet. Here, however, there is less power and depth. It's a far more approachable wine at a far more approachable price. Streets ahead of supermarket shelf-filler for little bit extra.